Bourke – Stanthorpe

Bourke was our last stop in NSW and our next stop was not far over the Queensland border and into Cunnamulla.  Cunnamulla is a neat little town that has a pretty rich history with early grazing and also for the Slim Dusty song Cunnamulla Fella.   There is a large bronze statue that was commissioned in 2004 to personify the Cunnamulla Fella and also the Slim Dusty song.

We booked into the Cunnamulla Tourist Park for a few days.  This was a neat little park that the owners are making a pretty good effort of trying to keep it looking appealing.

We did a couple of walks around the town and also the sand hills walking tracks that were not quite what we expected.  A short drive to the Allan Tannock Weir on the Warrego River was worth it as there was water flowing quite fast over the wall.   Most of the locals were quite happy with the rain they had recently had and were hopeful of more to come.

Crossing the border into Queensaland
At the Cunnamulla Tourist Park
The Cunnamulla Fella Statue
Locals that kept us company on the Sand Hills Walking Trail
The Warrego River overflowing at the Allan Tannock Weir
Pontoon near the Allan Tannock Weir
The Warrego River was pretty full
Bridge over the Warrego River at Cunnamulla
Mural on water tank at Cunnamulla
Cunnamulla Train Station

Our next stop from Cunnamulla was only a short drive of about 45 kilometres east along the Balonne Highway to Charlotte Plains Station.  They have some hot artesian bores that they have set up with bathtubs that you can sit in and “enjoy the experience”.  We weren’t sure if we would be able to get out there as some of the roads we still wet.  Luckily for us though we were able to get through quite easily.

When we arrived there were only two other vans out there so room wasn’t a problem.  The next day they both left as the weather forecast was for more rain so they decided to scamper.  As we weren’t in a hurry we decided to stay and had the whole place to ourselves for the next few days.  It did rain and we did have to stay a day longer that planned.  Luckily the wine supply was good so we were able to hunker down and tough it out. 

The setup with the baths is quite well done and with the bores running continuously you don’t run out of water.  With saying that you can only spend around 15 to 20 minutes in the baths anyhow before you start to get to hot and also start to look a bit prune like.  The borehead was first tapped in 1892 and has been flowing continuously since then.  It has slowed down some since it was first completed but still flows at around 1,000,000 litres a day.

Camped at Charlotte Plains
Camped at Charlotte Plains
The continuously flowing artesian bore
The continuously flowing artesian bore
The open air baths at Charlotte Plains
What an attractive couple
On the day it rained you could see the steam coming off the water very easily
Some old stockyard fences at Charlotte Plains
Lovely blue skies on the day we drove out after being rained in

The drive out of Charlotte Plains wasn’t too bad.  We only had one spot on the dirt track that was a bit slippery and we did only just get through it.  A heavy van on the back does make life interesting on mud tracks.

Our next stop was an overnighter at Wallam Creek in Bollon.  This is a free camp on the edge of town that was well set up and had plenty of room.  There were probably around 20 of us there for the night and no-one was to close to us.  We did a walk through some bush and along the creek for a bit of exercise before going to the local for a meal that night.  If you are ever in Bollon the pub meals are excellent, and huge.  Probably to large but you definitely get your monies worth.

St George was next after a Bollon.  Food was getting low and the dirty clothes were starting to fill the cupboard a bit much so it was time for Kaye to do some domestics.  We booked into the Kamarooka Tourist Park.  It was quite a nice park though a bit tight with the bigger van but well run and presented.

We did a few drives around the area of St George.  A stop for lunch at the Nindigully Hotel was a nice treat.  At the Nindigully Hotel you can purchase an $80 Burger that comes with 5.5kg of beef patties if your game to try it.   There is a lot of cotton grown in the district and the irrigation channels run all through the area.  Being so dry over here at the moment most of the channels were dry and the cotton harvest has been well down on previous years.  St George is on the  Ballonne River and has a nice river walk in the town that was nice for a couple of walks.

Beardmore Dam Wall near St George
Balonne River at St George
River walk along the Balonne River in St George
Jack Taylor Weir at St George
One of the few full irrigation channels around St George
Ducks perched on trees near St George
Aerial crop spraying near St George
Cotton crop ready for harvest
Cotton bales ready for transport to the cotton gin
Iconic Nindigully Hotel
Iconic Nindigully Hotel
Iconic Nindigully Hotel

We had a nice stay in St George.  I think more also that we both enjoy being back in Queensland, seems to have something special about it when you are here.  Mungindi was our next place, just a short 120km down the road right on the NSW border.  On our drive to Mungindi we passed through Thallon.  They have some magnificent silo art there to see.  It would be about the best we have seen.  Well worth a stop to look at.   They also have a statue of a giant wombat in the local park that we saw being opened in an episode of Back Roads on ABC TV a few years ago. 

 We stayed at a free camp just on the Queensland side of the border.  Mungindi is where the straight line of the border separating NSW and Queensland stops and then goes all twisty following the rivers to the ocean on the east coast.

Just out of Mungindi is One Ton Post that was erected by the surveyor JB Cameron in 1881 that marks the start of the straight section of the border.  There was a similar post at Cameron Corner but this has disappeared and is now only a cement maker.  Mungindi also has a hot artesian pool and we thought that would be a good afternoon of relaxing.  Unfortunately it is only open in the mornings so that was our afternoons plans in the wash.

Silo art at Thallon
Giant wombat at Thallon
Camped Queensland side of the border at Mungindi
River Border at Mungindi
One Ton Post at Mungindi
One Ton Post at Mungindi
One Ton Post at Mungindi

Goondiwindi was our next stop before our final destination of Stanthorpe.  We had been to Goondiwindi previously so didn’t really anything much planned while here.  Mothers  Day was also came while in Goondiwindi so that was one night of entertainment planned. We went to the Victoria Hotel in the main street for dinner,  that has a very impressive looking façade.  During our drive to Goondiwindi from Mungindi we saw our first cotton harvester working.  We had seen plenty of harvested crops and lots of cotton bales but no-one working in the fields.

Harvested cotton waiting to be picked up and taken to the cotton gin
Cotton harvester in action
Cotton harvester in action

We stayed again at the showgrounds in Goondiwindi.  They are pretty good value for power and water plus they weren’t overly busy which was good for us.  Goondiwindi also sits on the border with NSW and seems to be a fairly major centre for the district both sides of the border.  Goondiwindi’s most famous resident was probably Gunsynd the racehorse back in the early 1970’s.   The Macintyre River also runs through the town as the border between the two states.

Gunsynd monument at Goondiwindi
Bridge over the border at Goondiwindi
The impressive Victoria Hotel at Goondiwindi
Goondiwindi main street

After surviving Mothers day in Goondiwindi it was off to Stanthorpe and catch up with Wayne and Julie.  They have a great property about 12km out of town and we had arranged to leave our caravan with them for a couple of weeks while we fly off to Vanuatu.  Last time we came to Stanthorpe they weren’t here so it was going to be good to catch up with them at home.  We also had a few small jobs to do on the caravan so a few days in Stanthorpe was what we needed.

We didn’t get up to too much while in Stanthorpe, we ticked off a fair bit when we were here last time.  The weather had warmed up a bit for us as well.  They had been having a few zero’s and minuses before we arrived.  We went for a day  trip out to Girraween National Park and did a 8 kilometre hike and climbed Pyramid Rock, walked to The Granite Arch then onto The Junction.  The Junction was where two creeks joined but unfortunately they were dry.  A couple walks in Stanthorpe around the river was a nice way to fill in some days when in town shopping as well.  Stanthorpe is a nice town that has most of everything you need and is only a couple of hundred kilometres from Brisbane.

Camped at Wayne and Julie’s
Camped at Wayne and Julie’s
Not far from the top of Pyramid Rock
Girraween NP – climbing Pyramid Rock
Some interesting rock formation on Pyramid Rock
Girraween NP – The Granite Arch
Girraween NP – The Granite Arch
Girraween NP – The Junction where Bald Rock Creek and Ramsay Creek meet
Historic rail bridge at Stanthorpe

Well the blog goes international again next time.  We are going to Vanuatu for a short break and to celebrate someone’s special birthday.  Also catching up with Anika and Renae while there also so that makes it even more special. Plus I think we need a holiday from all this travelling, its a tough road we travel.

Port Augusta – Bourke

For a few weeks now we have been having issues with our batteries whenever we are free camping.  At night we have been getting an alarm going off saying that we had low volts and to disconnect all appliances.  After discussion with the good people at REDARC and some line testing of our system we all came to the conclusion that our batteries are probably u/s.  This was disappointing as they are only 18 months old and it appears that some additional work we had done by the dealer to the van prior to pickup was the issue.  After some discussion between ourselves we decided to drive down to Adelaide and get some new batteries for the van.  This was a 300km deviation to our original route but we wanted the issue sorted out.

The drive to Adelaide went well and by around 1pm we had the new batteries in the van and the headed back out of the city to Gawler for the night.  We had been to Gawler before and decided to stay in the same caravan park we did when last here.  Its quite large and the sites are as well. We got here around 3pm so plenty of time to set up and then relax.  They also have a Dan Murphy’s in Gawler so we paid them a visit to get some essential supplies.  We weren’t sure when we would see the next one again.

Next day we were on the road again and heading for Peterborough.  This was going to put us back on our original planned route to get to Queensland.  On the drive to Peterborough we passed through Burra again.  We didn’t realise this until we were in the town centre and recognised some of the buildings.  We came in from a different direction this time.  Burra has some great old buildings you can do in a heritage trip through the town.  It was time for morning tea anyway so we decided to stop here for a break.

Morning tea break at Burra

At Peterborough we booked into the caravan park in the town.  We wanted to wait a few days before trying out the new batteries and decided to do caravan parks for a little while longer.  Peterborough is quite a nice small town and they have done a bit of work in the town centre trying to make it a bit more appealing.  Like most small country towns over this side of the country they have some great old buildings and it is good to see an effort being made to try and bring some life back into these areas.

We did a couple of walks around the town as park wasn’t very far away.  Being so dry in South Australia at the moment all towns are struggling to keep any green in the place.  They had a nice big park called Victoria Park that was really struggling to keep up with the dry.  Hopefully they have a good winter this year, they definitely need it.

Old steam train display at Peterborough
Peterborough’s old buildings are slowly being brought back to life
Peterborough’s old buildings are slowly being brought back to life
Peterborough’s old buildings are slowly being brought back to life
Peterborough’s old buildings are slowly being brought back to life

From Peterborough it was a short drive up the highway to Manna Hill.  Manna Hill has a free camp not far off the highway next to the hotel.  It was also time to test out the new batteries and see if we had managed to solve the low voltage alarm issue we had been having.  Manna Hill doesn’t consist of a lot.  Besides the local pub, police station and old station ruins there isn’t much else to look at in town.  Unfortunately for us the pub was closed for the Easter weekend so our entertainment was limited to our own imaginations!!!  A good thing to report though was that we both had a great nights sleep with no alarm going off during the night.  Hopefully we have solved our problem.

Camped at Manna Hill
Manna Hill train station
Manna Hill hotel

Manna Hill is definitely only a one night stopover.  Being so close to the road there was some noise but it did quiet down pretty well during the night.  Broken Hill was our next stop.  We had been here a couple of years ago but still decided to stay for three nights.  Again we also decided to stay out at the racecourse.  They have a pretty good set up there and you are camped on grass which is nice.  The price had gone up a bit since we were here last so it wasn’t as cheap as we thought it might be.  If their not careful they may find people will try and find alternative places to stay.

There were a couple of things we didn’t see last time we were here so we did manage to fill our time in quite well.  The Line of Lode Miners Memorial and Lookout was worth a look.  It looked like they still have some more work to finish off on this display, I hope so as it was a bit bare and barren on the outside.  We also did a day drive out to Silverton and looked at the Mad Max 2 museum while there.  Not quite what I was expecting but probably pretty good if your a Mad Max diehard.  On our way back to Broken Hill we called into the Daydream Mine for a look and small tour.  The tour was average but the tea and scones were very nice.

View of Broken Hill from the Line of Lode Miners Memorial
View of Broken Hill from the Line of Lode Miners Memorial
Line of Lode Miners Memorial
The big seat at the Line of Lode Miners Memorial
Welcome to Silverton
Silverton old church
Silverton old house
Mad Max 2 Museum
Mad Max 2 Museum
Mad Max 2 Museum
Daydream Mine
Daydream Mine
Daydream Mine ruins
Daydream Mine ruins

Wilcannia was our next place of interest after Broken Hill.  This was getting us up to the Darling River.  We were interested to see if any water was flowing at all in the river as there had been some rain in the area.  Alas no there wasn’t any water flowing, just a few small areas of water on the bottom.  The caravan park in town hadn’t been getting very good reviews so we decided to stay a couple of kilometres out at a place called Warrawong on The Darling.  This was a fairly small but well kept park but a bit on the pricey side so it was only a one night stay.  Lots of kangaroos around the park and nice grass so at least the ambience was good.  Word about the park in town must be well known as we ended up really crowded and when we went for a drive into town there was only one van in the town park.

Wilcannia was in its heyday was a thriving town of over 15000 people and also the third biggest port in Australia with all the paddle steamers going up and down the Darling River.  Its only a fraction of that now though there are some nice old buildings still standing in the town.  Wilcannia also has one of the oldest Lift Span Bridges on the Darling that had a centre section that raised when the river was high to allow the paddle steamers to travel further up the river. With the river now dry for most of the time you cant see much happening to help the town develop a more viable tourist trade.

Camped at Warrawong with the kangaroos
Wilcannia’s great old buildings
Wilcannia’s great old buildings
Wilcannia’s great old buildings
The poor state of the Darling River
Lift span bridge over the Darling River at Wilcannia
Lift span bridge over the Darling River at Wilcannia

Cobar was our next stopover for a couple of nights.  We were wanting to do some more free camping to try out the batteries but with the rain they have had recently in the area, a lot of the roads were closed.  This also included the National Parks that we were hoping to stop off at.  On our drive from Wilcannia to Cobar we had water all along the side of the road for the whole 260 kilometres so our chances of staying anywhere off the road were looking grim unless we wanted to be walking around in mud – no thanks if I don’t have to.  We were changing our plans a little bit which also meant we were travelling a bit quicker than planned.  Hopefully it dries out a bit and we can do a bit more free camping and slow down.

The Cobar Caravan Park is quite a nice park with reasonably large sites and a concrete pad that you can set up next to on each site.  We were thinking that Cobar was going to be a bit smaller than what it was as well.  The town seems to be surviving quite well.  We knew it was a mining town but both thought it was not being done anymore in the town.  Just a couple of kilometres out of town you can go to Fort Bourke Lookout and look at Cobar and its surrounds as well as look down about 150 metres into the New Cobar Open Cut Gold Mine.    One thing that surprise us both a bit was the train station at Cobar.  Most towns seem to spend a bit doing up there old stations and Cobar seems to have ignored theirs a bit compared to other towns.

Cobar’s impressive entry statement
Cobar’s impressive entry statement at night
The New Cobar Open Cut Gold Mine from the Fort Bourke Lookout
The New Cobar Open Cut Gold Mine from the Fort Bourke Lookout
Cobar’s main street buildings
Cobar’s main street buildings
Cobar’s main street buildings
Cobar train station
Old head frame at the Mining Heritage Park

Next along our way was Bourke.  This was going to be our last stopover in NSW before getting into our ultimate destination of Queensland.  We stayed at the Mitchell Caravan Park and decided to go on an unpowered site to give the batteries a good test.  This was a 160 kilometre drive today and we still had water all along the road for the whole drive, even more as we got closer to Bourke.

There were a few things to see around Bourke but again even with the rain they have had the river was still bone dry.  The country was greening up a bit though which was pleasing most of the locals.  Some were having green lawns for the first time in a while.  Fred Hollows, our famous Australian eye surgeon is buried in Bourke.  The cemetery also has the grave of Senior Constable McCabe who was shot and killed by the bushranger Captain Starlight.

Other places to visit in and around Bourke are North Bourke Bridge.  This is the oldest lift span bridge in Australia, similar to the one in Wilcannia.  There is also the Back O’Bourke Exhibition Centre and the paddle steamer PV Jandra that was sitting in mud in a dry Darling River when we saw it.  The Lock and Weir at Bourke was the first to be built along the Murray/Darling River Systems.  Not a pretty sight at the moment with no water in the river.  The Wal Mitchell Wharf Precinct was the base for the largest inland port on the Darling River in its heyday.  Not much here now though, just the remains of the old wharf that thankfully you can still walk around.  There also is the old Crossley Engine nearby that has been fully restored.  This once provided power for Sydney and the Power House Museum and is now situated in Bourke.

The Crossley Engine on display at Bourke
The dry weir near Bourke on the Darling River
The dry weir near Bourke on the Darling River
At the Wal Mitchell Wharf Precinct
Under the Wal Mitchell Wharf Precinct
How dry the Darling River is around Bourke
The PV Jandra high and dry in the Darling River at North Bourke
The PV Jandra high and dry in the Darling River at North Bourke
North Bourke Lift Span Bridge
North Bourke Lift Span Bridge
Fred Hollows burial site at Bourke cemetery
Old graves at Bourke cemetry

Well after a couple of days not being hooked up to power we had no alarms going off at night so we feel quite confident that we have sorted out our electrical/battery issues we were having.

Our next stop is over the border in Queensland, its good to know that we will finally be there.  Hopefully it a bit drier so we can get off the road a bit, fingers crossed.